Chapter 4. DECORATIVE PROCESSES

WIRE WORK

Wire may form the foundation of a piece of jewelry, or it may be applied as a decoration. It is often twisted to add lightness to a design, and can easily be formed into coils or line units of decoration for flat or curved surfaces. Twists and coils of wire can be made of round, half round, or square wire.

Keep the 14 gauge or heavier wire in coils. Wire of a lighter gauge may be wound on spools. If kinks occur in the lighter gauge wire they can be removed by holding the wire ends firmly and the length taut while drawing it over the edge of a wooden bench, or block of wood.

THE JIG

Many of the wire units, coils, and twists shown in this book were made on jigs. The word "jig" is a mechanics' term given to a device which is used to guide a tool or a material. A jig makes the forming of an article easier during construction and makes the finished pieces mechanically more perfect. When a design requires duplication of parts, a jig is often used. The one shown here was made on a block of wood with nails spaced and hammered into the wood, the nail heads sawed off, and the ends made smooth so the wire units may be formed and removed easily.

WIRE UNIT MADE ON A JIG AND SOME OF THE WAYS IT CAN BE USED

Drops for necklaces Ends turned under to make slides for belts

WIRE TWISTING

Often a design calls for a twist of given length, sometimes a tight or loose twist. To determine the length to cut the wire is important. The gauge of the wire as well as the number of twists the wire is given will determine the length of the finished piece. When round wire is used, two or more lengths are necessary for the twist. A rope-like effect may be obtained by twisting a single length of flat or square wire. All wire should be annealed.

TWISTING WIRE 18 GAUGE OR LIGHTER

Measure the amount needed for the twist. Loop the wire length in the center, and insert the two loose ends through the hole in the spool. Hold the ends in the jaws of a table vise. Insert a small steel rod through the loop of wire, and pull the wire taut. Hold the spool firmly against the rod. Turn the rod to twist the wire.

TWISTING WIRE 16 GAUGE OR HEAVIER

Hold the looped end of the wire in the jaws of the hand vise. Clamp the loose end in the jaws of the table vise. Turn the hand vise to twist the wire.

TO DETERMINE THE LENGTH

In cutting the wire for a definite length of finished twist, the following examples have been given of two round wires of different gauges and lengths.

18 gauge, 26 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 11 1/8, inches
18 gauge, 26 inches, twisted 75 times, gives 9 5/8 inches
18 gauge, 14 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 5 1/4 inches
20 gauge, 14 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 4.7/8^ inches

Twisting heavier wire

Twisting fine wire The wire is annealed. It is held taut while being twisted but will break if it is twisted too tightly. Making a round wire coil

Coils of wire can be made on mandrels of various sizes and shapes. The simplest is the coil of round rings made of round wire. There are many uses for the coil. When sawed into rings it may be made into a chain. By pulling the wire on both ends to stretch the coil, an open wavy coil results, which may be curved or bent to follow a line for decoration. The open coil may also be flattened into a decorative band of overlapping rings. A cone shaped coil can be made on a round pointed mandrel (knitting needle). These may be used for pendants to give movement and interest to a design and are sometimes used as a fringe for an edge.

THE JIG

Select a round steel mandrel the diameter of the coil desired. Place between two blocks of soft wood parallel with the grain of the wood.
Press the blocks between the jaws of the table vise to form a groove in each block. Remove the mandrel from the blocks, and file a groove at a right angle to the groove made by the mandrel.

COILING THE WIRE

Place the mandrel between the blocks in the groove letting the end extend beyond the blocks about 1/2 inch. Hold the blocks in the jaws of the table vise tight enough to hold the blocks but loose enough so the mandrel will turn and move out of the groove as the wire is coiled. Make a few coils on the end of the mandrel. Clamp the mandrel and coils in the jaws of the hand vise. Hold the loose end of the wire in the filed groove during the coiling process to guide the wire and to keep the coil even. Use the hand vise as a handle to turn the mandrel to form the coil.

The blocks holding the mandrel are held in the bench vise. The protruding end of the mandrel is held in the hand vise, and the coil is formed by turning the hand vise. The wire is held taut and is guided by the left hand.

MAKING A FLAT WIRE COIL

A flat coiled unit is usually made of round wire. It may be the foundation of an article and is often used for decoration, either as a single unit or several combined to make a pattern. The wire ends of the unit may be turned under at right angles to form staples so that it can be used as a decorative stud on leather or fabric. The unit may hang as a pendant or several may be linked together to form a chain.

THE JIG

14 gauge or heavier metal sheet. Saw a 1 inch disk or larger. Drill a hole in the center of the disk the size of the mandrel which determines the size hole in the center of the coil. File a notch in the edge of the hole the size of the wire to be used for the coil.

COILING WIRE 18 GAUGE OR LIGHTER

Cut a wire length, and insert the end and mandrel 1/2 inch through the hole in the disk, and the wire in the notch. Bend the annealed wire around the mandrel, and hold both the wire and the mandrel in the jaws of the hand vise.

Wind the wire to make the coil by turning the vise. Keep the coil flat with the thumb of the left hand while coiling. Each ring must touch the ring just made and lie flat on the disk. Place the hand vise in the jaws of the table vise. Insert the end of the mandrel in the hole of the setting tool. Tap the end of the setting tool to flatten the coil. Repeat this operation often to keep the coil flat.

COILING WIRE 16 GAUGE OR HEAVIER

Insert the wire end and mandrel through the hole in the disk. Hold as described above. Place a hand vise in the jaws of the table vise. Hold the loose end of the wire in the right hand, and wind on the disk.

THE SETTING TOOL

Saw a short length of hard wood rod (a broom handle). File one end smooth and flat and finish with sandpaper. Drill a hole in the center larger in diameter than the mandrel and deeper than the length of the mandrel.

Round links combined in various ways for chains
Sawing a coil into links for a chain

CHAIN OF ROUND RINGS

Make a round coil of wire. Insert a wooden core in the coil. Place the coil in the ring clamp. Hold the clamp in the jaws of the table vise. Place a # 1 blade in the saw frame and saw the coil into rings. Hold a ring on each side of the opening with the pliers. Push the ends beyond each other, then together.

SINGLE CHAIN

Close 2/3, the number required. Open 1/3 the width of the wire. Hook the open ring through the two closed rings. Close the open ring to make an even joint.

Two chains made from wire units, and some pendants to hang from them for necklaces and bracelets brass and copper good luck charm brass and copper good luck charm copper and silver bracelet with identification tag iron and silver chain silver or copper drop holding a green stone. The construction of these pieces will be found on the following pages.

CHAIN OF ROUND RINGS

18 gauge wire
Determine the number of units required for the chain. Cut a 2 1/2 inch length of wire for each unit. Coil the wire once around the end of the mandrel. Hold in the jaws of the table vise. Coil the wire length around the mandrel by hand.

Remove the coil from the mandrel. Insert a flat steel tool between the last ring on each end of the coil to make a space. Turn the rings at right angles to the coil with square nose pliers. Link the units together to form the chain. Bring the wire ends to the center of the coil with round nose pliers.

CHAIN OF SHAPED UNITS

18 GAUGE WIRE

Place the jig in the jaws of the table vise. Insert a wire end in the hole X. Bring he wire between i and 2. Coil around i. Carry the wire to 2 and make a coil. Pull the wire to make the coil tight. Reverse the position of the coil so the wire in X is pointing up and pull the end to tighten the coil.
Remove the unit from the pegs. Cut the wire ends where they meet the center wire. Press between the jaws of the square nose pliers, so they lie flat. Place the unit on 3. Draw rings together with the tips of the round nose pliers.

Identification tag

2 gauge copper sheet 2 inches square
Tin one side. Saw two 5/8 inch disks.

20 gauge silver sheet3/4 of an inch square
All parts held together with cotter pins or soldering

Tin one side. Transfer the pattern of the initial to the silver. Saw to pattern. File all edges smooth. Finish with emery cloth. Apply flux to the tinned surface. Place on the untinned side of the copper disk, and hold with cotter pins. Lay on an iron screen with the initial side down and place on a hot plate until the solder melts.

18 GAUGE SILVER WIRE

Make four wire units. Flux the tinned surface of the second disk. Place the four units on the fluxed surface. Melt the solder with the soldering iron, enough to hold the units in place. Flux the tinned surface of the two disks again. Hold the disks together with cotter pins. Make sure the edges of the disks are even and the initial is straight with the center loop.

Lay on a screen and hot plate until the solder melts. This will show in a bright metallic line between the joined edges. Let the metal cool before removing from the screen.

shape the cap to fit the stone
To cap a stone 26 gauge silver sheet

Cut and dome a 1/4 inch disk A. The size of the disk depends upon the stone B. Place the dome on a lead block with the cup up. Punch a hole in the center C. File the rough edge of the hole D.

22 GAUGE SILVER WIRE

Make a loop in a short length of wire E. Insert the ends through the hole in the dome F. Spread the wire against the sides of the cup G. Bend the dome slightly oval to fit the stone. Insert adhesive tape in the loop. Apply liquid cement inside the cup. Bind the dome to the stone to form a cap H. Remove the tape when the cement is dry.

TO BIND A STONE

Two identical stones with flat base. Apply liquid cement to the base of each. Bind together until dry.

22 GAUGE SILVER WIRE

Measure the circumference of the stone. Cut a length of wire 1 inch longer than measured. Lay the wire in the groove between the stones. Twist the wires together, and make a loop.

MOUNTING A STONE WITH HOOKS

File a 1/16 inch groove the length of a soft stone. Make a notch on each end of the groove.

1/16 INCH HALF ROUND SILVER WIRE

Use enough for the length of the stone and the hooks. Shape the wire as shown. Cement the wire into the groove. Bend the ends to meet the stone.

MOUNTING FOR A STONE OF IRREGULAR SHAPE

Let the wire follow the outline of the stone. Leave enough space between the stone and wire for movement. Trace the outline of the stone on a sheet of paper. Enlarge the traced outline 1/8 inch A. Measure the outline of the enlarged pattern. Add 1 3/4 inches for the working ends and hooks.

14 GAUGE SILVER WIRE

Cut the measured length. Make a loop on one end of the wire B. File the other end of wire to measure 18 gauge. Shape the wire to pattern B. Cut the extending wire and bend the loop as shown. Make a loop on the filed end and bring the looped ends together C and solder D. File edges smooth. Finish with emery cloth. Cap a stone and hook to the loop.

MOUNTING ON WHICH TO HANG A STONE 18 GAUGE WIRE 9 1/2 INCHES

Make a 1/2 inch coil on each end of the wire. Make a loop in the center. Turn the loop down to form a hook.

Copper and nickel silver (or brass), both pieces tinned on one side Good luck charm

24 GAUGE COPPER SHEET 2 INCHES SQUARE

Tin one side. Trace the design on the untinned side of the sheet. Saw to pattern.

22 GAUGE BRASS 2 INCHES SQUARE

Tin one side. Flux the tinned surface of both metals. Hold the metals together with cotter pins. Place on a screen and hot plate until the solder melts. When cool wash with pumice powder and a brush.
Saw the brass sheet even with the copper design. File and emery the edges smooth and even, then polish with a burnisher.

By following the same procedure other and more personal charms can be made

THE CROSS

1/8 inch brass tubing

Saw A 1 1/2 inches and B 1 inch. Scratch a line y inch from one end of each. File a half round groove in the line. Wire A to B and sweat together.

22 gauge silver sheet

Saw four 3/4by 1/8 inch strips C.File C 3/8 inch on one end to fit the tube. Cut and dome a 3/8 inch disk D. File the base of the dome to fit the tube. Tin the filed ends of C and the cup of D. Insert C in the tubes and hold D on AB with the soldering tweezers. Sweat together. Turn the ends of C on a 1/8 inch mandrel.

THE CHAIN

Cross and chain of silver and brass 22 gauge silver sheet

Saw a 1/8 inch strip cut into 3/4, inch lengths. Turn the ends on a 1/16 inch mandrel.

18 gauge brass wire

Make 1/4 inch rings for the chain and two 3/8 inch rings for the cross and clasp.

Necklace of onyx beads joined by silver links and an onyx pendant
The design was suggested by the marking on the back of the stone, the eye of a fish. Its form and translucent quality lent itself to piercing a fish design. The framework of metal holds the stone. Beads, the same texture and color of the stone, are held together with a silver unit suggesting a sea horse. The mottled edge of orange and brown of the stone is repeated in the eye and again in the beads. The luster of the silver gives good color and brilliance to the finished piece. Other translucent stones suitable for jewelry are often found which will suggest many designs.

THE PENDANT

Draw the outline of the stone on a sheet of paper and add prongs to the outline at the top, bottom and sides. Place the fish design within the outline so the marking on the stone will be in position for the eye of the fish. The pierced design must be in the frame which holds the base of the stone.

22 gauge silver sheet

Transfer the pattern to the silver. Drill a hole in the section to be pierced. Pierce the design, and saw the outline of the pattern. File all edges even. Finish with emery cloth. Polish with tripoli and a felt buff. Place the stone in position on the metal. Turn the metal which extends beyond the edge of the stone with round nose pliers to hold the stone firmly. Round any sharp corners with a file. Remove scratches and polish with a burnisher.

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