Chapter 5. THE CHAIN

Units for the chain 18 gauge silver wire

Cut a wire length 1 1/2 inches A. Make a ring on each end of the wire. Loop the wire in the center, and flatten to hold the hook of the pendant. Bring the rings almost together. Cut ten lengths of wire 1 1/2 inches. Coil the wire with round nose pliers B. Cut twenty-eight lengths of wire 3/4 inch C. Make a ring on one end of each wire.

Assembling the chain

Hook one ring of A into a coiled end of B. Hook C into the other B coil. Insert the stem of C through the hole in the bead, and a B coil. Turn the stem of C to form a ring. The bead should be held tight by the C rings. Continue joining the wire units and beads until half of the chain has been finished. Repeat the above to complete the chain. Hook the pendant in A.

units for the chain

assembling the chain

assembled and soldered filed and polished

Ring of flat coils Ring shank 18 gauge silver wire

Measure the finger with ring sizes. The ring shown is a 5 1/2 ring size. Cut three lengths of wire 2 1/2 inches long. Solder the wires together on the ends 1/4 inch to hold them even. Solder the three lengths together. File and smooth with emery cloth. Shape around the ring mandrel on size #6 (a half size larger than the finished ring) with the solder on the inside of the ring. Saw the wires where they overlap. Join the ends and solder together.

Ornament

Cut two lengths of wire, one 8 inches long and one 6 inches long.
Make flat coils on the ends of A and B with holding ends in the jig 1/4 inch. Wind the coils toward each other and the holding ends on the same side. Cut the holding ends. Loop the center of A and B on a 1/16 inch mandrel, with the coils on the outside. Unit A should measure 1 inch by 1 inch, and B 3/4 inch by 3/4 inch. Turn A loop 3/8 inch, and B loop 1/4 inch. Insert B through A, press together between square nose pliers so they lie flat. Solder together. Hook AB over the joint of the shank and solder together. Turn the looped end toward the coils. File the inside smooth and finish with emery.

Necklace of flat coils

The coiled units

18 gauge wire

Cut twenty wire lengths 6 inches. Make twenty flat coils, winding the wire five times to make the unit. Leave 3/8 inch wire end on each unit A. Let 1/2 inch of the outside wire rest on the back of the coil. Bend flat against the coil B. Cut the wire 3/8 inch from the edge of the coil to the end of the wire. Make a 1/8 inch ring on the other wire end C. Join the coiled units with 1/4 inch rings to make the chain D.

The catch

Cut a wire length 3 inches. Bend in the center and bring the ends together. Make a hook on the looped end and a ring on each wire end. Link to one end of the chain. To fasten, hook the catch to the last ring on the other end of the chain.

16 gauge shellacked copper wire, three 32 inch lengths

Remove all kinks.

Clamp 4 inches of the three ends in the jaws of the table vise. Hold 4 inches of the other ends in the jaws of the hand vise. Pull the wires so they are taut and even. Give the hand vise sixty full turns to twist the wire. Make six flat coils on the wire ends.

Scarf holder

The two ends of the scarf holder are hooked together. A scarf is folded around the wire twist at the back and brought to the front. Knot the ends together to hold the wire loops in place.

The same process is used in making the scarf holder and bracelet, the difference being the length of the wires, the number of turns and the final shaping.

Bracelet of twisted and coiled wire

The bracelet is constructed in the same way as the scarf holder. The wires may be cut longer or shorter depending upon the number of times the wire coils around the arm. Twist and coil the wire. Follow instructions on page 36 (scarf holder). Form the bracelet around the head of a wooden mallet. Spread and taper slightly to fit the arm.

with centers turned under to form hooks six double coils Terminal ornament

assembled and soldered

Barrette of flat coils Coils 18 gauge silver wire

Cut six lengths of wire 8 inches. Make a flat coil on the ends. Loop the center and bring the coils together and hook into each other. Cut one length of wire 4 inches. Coil one end, leave a 1/2 inch length to insert between the last two double coils.

Tap the loops flat on the coils. Solder the loops together with the soldering iron. Adjust the coils to overlap with the stems close together. Bend to a slight curve.

The clasp

The clasp is commercial, and should be narrow enough to be covered by the coils and long enough to support the coils. Tin the top of the clasp. Flux the tinned surface of the clasp and the loops on the back. Hold firmly with cotter pins and sweat together.

Terminal ornament

Cut a wire length 1 1/2 inches and make a ring on each end. Place a small piece of pure tin in each ring. Melt into a ball with the tip of the soldering iron. A 1/8 inch silver bead may be inserted on the wire ends and soldered. Loop the wire in the center. File a 1/4 inch silver bead to fit on the first loop of the coils. Insert the looped end of the wire through the hole in the bead and solder together. Cut the loop and spread the wires. Fit the filed bead over the looped end. Solder the bead and wires to the coils.

Band bracelet with dangles

18 gauge copper sheet

Cut a strip of copper 5 1/2 inches by 1/2 inch. Scratch a line lengthwise through the center.

marked by the dividers, marked by the center punch, holes drilled

Center punch and drill nine 1/8 inch holes on the line and two 1/16 inch holes on each end. Bend to form the bracelet. Polish and lacquer.

1/16 half round silver wire

Cut a 7 inch length. Hook through the holes in the end of the bracelet.

1/16 flat silver wire

Cut nine 1 1/2 inch lengths. Bend each piece in the center. Insert the wire ends from the front over the silver wire and through the 1/8 inch holes. Bend and hook over the edges of the band.

18 gauge copper wire

Cut nine 5 1/2 inch lengths. Make flat coils of wire. Polish and lacquer. Cut fifteen 1 inch lengths of wire. Make a 1/4 inch loop on the end of each wire. Thread nine of the wires with 1/4\ inch silver beads. Thread six of the wires through the 3/16 inch silver beads and loop the wire ends. Hook the smaller beads through the end loops (three at each end) and hook the larger beads to the hooks on one edge of the bracelet and the coils to the hooks on the other edge.

nine wires added

Nine nine coils_{1/r hmdg 3}/i₆" beads

beads and coils added